2019 Hubert Lamy + New 2023 Gravieres, Remilly, and Criots-Batard!

Domaine Hubert Lamy remains one of the few addresses in the Côte de Beaune that I have run the risk of exhausting superlatives on; the wines simply have few rivals when it comes to quality and terroir expression in the Côte de Beaune, though this recognition is two decades of work synthesizing only in recent vintages. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including high-density plantings and unhedged canopies; Lamy's own Chardonnay nursery for massal selection; extended élevage on the lees (now 24 months in total); obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, distinguished his wines as the best from the rest.

2019 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin La Princée
WA90, JM89, VM89, BH87-89
"Aromas of pear, freshly baked bread, lemon oil and bread dough introduce Lamy's 2019 Saint-Aubin La Princée, a medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive wine built around a racy spine of acidity and chalky extract. Concluding with a saline finish, this has turned out beautifully."
-William Kelley

2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes
JS96, WA93, JM93, BH92 (Outstanding)
"From white marl over limestone, akin to the Kimmeridgian soils of Chablis, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes emerges from the glass with aromas of nashi pear, white flowers, oyster juice, white peach and lemon oil. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, pure and chiseled, with a crisp core of fruit and ample chalky extract, concluding in a long, saline finish. Oceanic in style, it will delight purists."
-Kristaps Karklins

2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravieres Blanc
JM94 (5 Stars), WA92, BH91 (Outstanding)
This plot was picked before the main harvest, on 30th August. An attractive pale green, just a little suavity on the nose as well as the pure fresh orchard fruit. Light on its feet yet beautifully persistent with a clear saline and mineral finish. Makes one salivate. Drink from 2028-2034.
-Jasper Morris

2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly
WA94, JM93, VM93, BH92 (Outstanding)
"From a warm microclimate, with vines planted largely in 1989 on hard limestone, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has turned out beautifully, rising from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, peach, pear and white flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, open-knit and textural, it is expressive, with a generous core of fruit, underpinned by racy acidity and concluding in a long, saline finish. Perched above the Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets vineyards, it possesses the tension and cut characteristic of such high-altitude sites.:
-Kristaps Karklins

2019 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densité
WA97, JM93-95 (5 Stars), VM94, BH92-94 (Sweet Spot, Outstanding)
"The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is showing brilliantly, realizing all the promise it showed from barrel. Last year, I described it as "deep and electric," and I don't think I can improve on that characterization now that I'm reviewing it from bottle. Unwinding in the glass with scents of pear, citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, beeswax and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and tensile, with a layered mid-palate, racy acids and chalky structuring extract, concluding with a searingly mineral finish. Saint-Aubin doesn't get much better than this. Or perhaps I should write that, for the time being, it hasn't; because who knows what Lamy can do next?"
-William Kelley

2023 Domaine Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité
JM98 (5 Stars), WA98, VM98, BH96
"Derived from vines planted at a density of 24,000 vines per hectare and matured in a single, previously used 228-liter barrel, Lamy’s 2023 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité has turned out beautifully, lifting from the glass with a deep bouquet of pear, orange peel, freshly baked bread and peach, mingled with dried white flowers and beeswax. On the palate, it is full-bodied, deep and layered, with an elegantly muscular core and an enveloping texture supported by racy acidity and ample reserves of chalky dry extract, culminating in a long, precise finish. From a warmer site than the one that produces the crystalline Derrière Chez Édouard Haute Densité, it is a lusher wine that is simultaneously grandiose and incisive, though, qualitatively speaking, there is little between them."
-Kristaps Karklins

"This is stunningly good and one of the wines of the 2023 vintage."
-Allen Meadows

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