Collectible Cuvees from Domaines Denis and Arnaud Mortet... Echezeaux, Mazoyeres, and More

Domaine Denis Mortet, and Arnaud Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin

Today's offer features two great labels from the Domaine Denis Mortet, and son's label Arnaud Mortet from the lovely and stunning 2022 vintage.  Behind the wine making is Arnaud for both labels, as well as help from his sister Clemence, and mother Laurence, a true family affair. Arnaud's father, Denis who passed in 2006 was a disciple of Henri Jayer. There has been a significant shift in the wines thanks to Arnaud's improvements in the vineyards, and in the cellars.  All these improvements have taken his wines to new heights, while maintaining the tremendous grain and sensual quality that makes Mortet one of the  leaders of the Jayer school.

Here is what Neal Martin had to say about Arnaud Mortet 2022's with the Domaine:
"Arnaud Mortet takes this Gevrey-based Domaine to a higher level every year, refining his approach. One major change has been a gradual reduction in the level of new oak, which you could argue was a little too high in the past. It's more a controlled 'dialing down' from 100% in his top cuvees, to percentages commensurate with the fruit concentration, though he points out that this obliges longer durations in barrel. The other change was his removal of the pedicels from the whole bunches of his Premier and Grand Crus. The fastidious and time-consuming removal of the main stem both moderates its impact and, crucially, how much it potentially increases pH levels. Therefore, readers should be aware that where I quote whole bunches percentages in tasting notes, it is misleading to compare this figure with other growers, who don't remove. The sensory effect is different."

2022 Domaine Denis Mortet Fixin Vieilles Vignes
JM 89-91, WA 89-91, BH 88-91
"The 2022 Fixin Vieilles Vignes comes from two lieux-dits from 60- to 70-year-old vines that naturally produce small berries, including around 60% whole bunches this year. With fine intensity on the nose, it offers marine-influenced, oyster shell-tinged black fruit with dried roses and a touch of loam. The palate is medium-bodied with a structured opening, firm grip, and hints of tobacco and dried leaves. Perhaps the stems come across a little too pronounced on the finish? Give this some time in bottle to fully integrate." -Neal Martin

2022 Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvee
JM 90-93, BH 89-91, VN 89-91, WA 89-91
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvee comes from the south of the appellation on gravel and limestone soils, including 30% whole bunches and 20% new oak. This has more red berry fruit on the nose, fine mineralite and transparency. The medium-bodied palate has fine tannins and much more depth and cohesion than the 2021, with allspice and savory notes towards the peppery finish. Should drink younger than the "Mes Cinq Terroirs" from the north of the appellation." - Neal Martin

2022 Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee De Tres Vieilles Vignes
JM 91-94, VN 91-93, WA 90-92, BH 89-92
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes comes from 80 to 100-year-old vines from three lieux-dits, including 60% whole bunches with the main stem removed manually and 30% new oak. The very well-defined nose offers lavender-tinged black fruit, potpourri and white pepper. The palate is well-defined with crisp tannins, a melange of red and black fruit and a healthy sprinkling of white pepper on the finish. Excellent." -Neal Martin

2021 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
JM 92-94, WA 91-93, VN 94
"The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has slightly darker blacker fruit on the nose, more sultry and backward with a patina of oak to be subsumed. That said, there is sufficient fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins. Dark plum and raspberry fruit, graphite and a touch of seaweed make it feel very sapid, almost briny towards the finish, and that gets the saliva flowing. It is an uncompromising Gevrey that does not care about pleasing the masses. But I find this absolutely absorbing and am fascinated to see how it will mature in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting." -Neal Martin

2022 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques
JM 92-94, VN 93-95, WA 91-93, BH 92-94
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques ler Cru includes one-third whole bunches and one-third new oak. Again, this is elegant and pure on the nose, beautifully defined with a Rousseau-like personality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very expressive yet understated. This doesn't need to boast. It has an effortless quality, fanning out wonderfully towards the finish. An outstanding Lavaux Saint-Jacques." -Neal Martin

2021 Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
JM 93-95, VN 92-94, BH 91-94, WA 92-93
"80% pedicel along with a few fatter grapes from rows by the wall which have been destemmed. One new barrel in 4.5. Mid purple colour, with a backward nose from this sturdy terroir. Dense ripe dark raspberry fruit, powerful even at the front of the palate, more complex behind as the stems and acidity play their part alongside the ripe tannins. Drink from 2028-2038." -Jasper Morris

2022 Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
JM 92-95, VN 92-94, BH 91-94, WA 92-94
"The 2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from a single parcel just below Château de la Tour and includes 30-40% whole bunches and one-third new oak. This is the most expressive and high-toned cuvée from Mortet: tangerine and Clementine infusing the red cherry fruit with a faint touch of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very harmonious and silky smooth with white pepper and a subtle savory note on the finish. Very fine." -Neal Martin

2021 Arnaud Mortet Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru
JM 93-95, VN 92-94, BH 92-94
"A quarter has been aged in new wood and 50- 60% pedicel vinification. Full purple with a rich heady nose from the clay-based soil. Solid, earthy fruit with grand cru weight but not the most finesse. Continues well across the palate. This needs more time before revealing itself fully. Drink from 2028-2038." -Jasper Morris

2022 Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
JM 95-97, BH 92-95, VN 93-95
"60% pedicel and 50% new wood are the recipe used for the 2022 Charmes-Chambertin. Brisk purple. More weight more stuffing, more strawberries and cream with a dusting of pepper. Then some cheerful cherries behind, a bright and attractive fruit throughout with sensible structure behind." -Jasper Morris

2022 Arnaud Mortet Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru
JM 94-96, BH 92-95, VN 95-97
"The 2022 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 50% whole bunches and 30% new oak. It has a much more floral bouquet than the Charmes-Chambertin, with veins of blue fruit running through the red cherries and crushed strawberries. It’s slightly more opulent thanks to the deeper soils. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, supremely well-focused and tensile. Arnaud Mortet said that this is becoming one of his favorite cuvées as the improvements made in the vineyard come to fruition in the glass. Beautiful." -Neal Martin

2022 Domaine Denis Mortet Echezeaux Grand Cru
JM 94-97, BH 92-94, VN 93-95
"Four barrels made, two new and 50%whole bunch/pedicel treatment. A pretty ruby colour. Very elegant on the nose, the floral side of raspberry., very elegant on the palate with a flowing detail, lovely supple fruit and impressive length, indeed a superb finish." -Jasper Morris

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-The Bottle List